The international online news (journalist Fu Xijuan): "white spirit" Yibin, with a large number of white spirit factories represented by the five-grain liquid. However, in this "white spirit and socket", it is quietly pregnant with a Chinese black liquor in a wine. What wine is the black liquor? Is it really black? As the "high count, high price" faces the adjustment of the industry, it is said that the "Black, low, healthy" undefineds Chinese black liquor can be raised and become the fifth bottle of wine on the Chinese table. With all the questions, the international on-line journalists made a special visit to the area of black wine, one of the places of the Chinese wine culture, Yibin, to visit some of the mysterious Chinese black wine.

The inventor of the black wine, Jiang Yong, was interviewed by the international online reporter: Zhao Jun

The white wine is full of black strange flowers.

Yibin, "the first city of the Yangtze River", Jinsha River and Minjiang are joined here. The rich water system breeds the large-river culture which is free and inclusive. At the same time, with the unique temperature and soil conditions, the wine culture tradition represented by the "the five-grain culture" is made. The wine, the black wine, is born here, and has a close relationship with the unique cultural tradition of Yibin.

Just after driving from Chengzilu Expressway to Yibin North exit, you can smell thick wine, where the world-famous Wuliangye factory area is located. When the reporter saw Jiang Yong, the inventor of black wine, he made no secret of the relationship between black wine and Wuliangye: "the reason why I thought of using five kinds of crops, black glutinous rice, black sesame, black bean, black jujube and walnut, was inspired by five kinds of grain, sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn."

Jiang Yong, authentic Yibin, infiltrated in the open and free Dajiang culture, destined to be a restless person. In 1989, Jiang Yong, a sailor, dabbled in the liquor industry and became a Wanyuan household in just a few months. But born a little anti-bone, Shunfeng Shunshui liquor business less than a year, began to "make liquor reverse." "I donundefinedt like liquor. Itundefineds bad for my health to have a high degree of white wine. Besides, Yibin makes white wine, so I want to make it different. So I soaked the wine with some friends. At that time, the slogan was to carry out the liquor revolution! "

Jiang Yong got a formula of soaking wine with walnut, black sesame, Lycium barbarum and Polygonum multiflori as raw materials from Luzhou Medical College, and then applied to a liquor factory in Yibin. However, the application for contracting was delayed. A few months later, Jiang Yong saw Lycium barbarum soaking wine on the street of Yibin. Originally, he wanted to contract manufacturers to advance the launch of Lycium barbarum soak wine, that is, later popular barbarum wine.

In the first step of the first step, Jiang Yong, who ate the mute, can only try to recruit. After investigation and research, he decided to use Chinese traditional cooking and fermentation technology to make wine. He also wants to borrow the five-grain liquid, also use five kinds of raw materials to brew, and push the new.

Packaging in different periods reflects the course photography of black wine development:Zhao Jun.

"I use five black ingredients, and unlike liquor distillation and fermentation, I use cooking and fermentation to make something completely different from liquor. Iundefinedve got a name. Itundefineds called undefinedfive Black Liquorundefined! " Although "five black liquid" has not been approved because of alleged infringement, but the new product was built, Jiang Yong did not delay for a moment, and a few friends put together 70,000 yuan, no return to the research and development of black wine. Soon, the first batch of wine was brewed. Dark brown body, with a sense of mystery; the taste between rice wine and wine gives it unusual elegance.

But can people accept this new wine? Can it withstand the test of the market?

There is no way out of doubt

After years of backtracking, distinctive black wine, the unsettling situation of Jiang Yong is on the road of a dark and repeated development.

Because it is not a professional fermentation, the first wine stinks or bugs in summer. The first investment was wiped out in less than a year. Until 1996, the partners withdrew one after another, leaving Jiang Yong alone.

In fact, Jiang Yong, who fought alone, also encountered many good opportunities.

位于山脚一隅的黑酒生产厂区非常静谧 摄影：付希娟

1999年，他带着黑酒参加成都的一场葡萄酒宴会，一位法国客商对黑酒青睐有加，约谈姜勇并在第二天带着黑酒样品参加了美领馆的聚会，同样大受欢迎。法国人当即决定带样品去法国检测。

“很快，法国检测通过了。本以为这次能墙内开花墙外香了，可没多久，法国人打来电话说样品质量发生变化。”原来，蒸煮发酵酒含有营养物和微量元素，必须密封低温环境保存，才能保证不发生变质，跋山涉水又没有很好地密封，所以到法国的这批黑酒出现了变质问题。姜勇非常清楚原因，他说：“不仅生产需要严格过滤、杀菌，包装也要保证密封良好，我没那么多钱购置这些设备，所以一直无法改变酒的变质问题，也无法解决冬季生产周期短的掣肘，产量始终难以突破”。

已过冬季生产期的厂区一角 摄影：付希娟

手工作坊式的生产条件和规模，让姜勇“墙内开花”的努力也同样屡遭挫折。

2003年夏天，为了在市场上有所起色，姜勇冒险接了一个200吨的订单，当时厂里存货只有90吨，而且正值盛夏，早已错过了冬季生产期，要想完成订单必须再生产。“那年夏天特别热，我就买了两个空调放到厂房里，可是蒸煮发酵还是让温度高达57度。**做出来的酒80%都坏了。”尽管已经时过境迁，但说起这次冒险，姜勇还是遗憾不已。直到2005年，市政府一笔百万元产业发展基金的投入，才让黑酒**克服了变质的问题。

山穷水尽疑无路，柳暗花明又一村。攻克了保质难题的黑酒是否能迎来发展的坦途呢？

从“黑娇子”到“金樽黑”的变迁

“黑酒发展到现在，走了太多的弯路！”这条弯路，从商标变换上可见一斑。从最初设想的黑五液，到正式注册的黑娇子，再到08年被迫更名黑龙冰岛，到现在的金樽黑酒，商标更迭折射出黑酒20年发展的起伏与波折。

为保水源可靠，姜勇在酒厂后山挖井，这是曾经使用过的井口 摄影：付希娟

搭车五粮液的 “五黑液”因涉嫌侵权没有获批，姜勇为给黑酒起个名符其实的好名字绞尽脑汁。“想了几十个名字，什么黑旋风、黑骑士，都不满意。98年时，成都一个设计师提议叫黑娇子，豁然一亮，既形象又符合黑酒独具中国特色的内涵。”说起这个好创意，姜勇两眼放光。而那个阶段，黑酒已经从口杯加胶纸的简陋包装，升级到不同款的洋酒瓶包装，黑酒在向产品化方向一点点迈进。

96年和98年，姜勇两次申请黑酒发明专利，终于在2001年成功获批，“发明专利就确定为黑酒，一个新酒类！”

2008年，黑娇子注册满10年。由于运作经验和商标保护意识的欠缺，姜勇在保护期满后未及时提交商标续展申请，就这样，与最契合的黑娇子失之交臂。而第二个商标“黑龙冰岛”的确定多少有些匆忙和随意了。“流经宜宾的金沙江也叫黑河，取黑龙二字代表金沙江。当时，洋酒卖得火，我想让它沾点洋气，注册时工作人员随口建议加上冰岛两字，我觉得挺洋气，就叫它了。”

厂区不远处就是宜宾三江汇合处 摄影：付希娟

尽管黑龙冰岛洋气很多，但黑酒独具一格的中国特色并没有清晰表现出来。也许是受模糊不清的名称影响，黑酒的发展之路仍然不明朗：除了变质问题以外，因为产量小难以进入正规流通渠道、包装定位缺乏专业经验无法实现良好的市场营销，“黑龙冰岛”遇到的各种发展机遇特别是出口海外，都因为这些问题徘徊不前。2005年政府投入产业基金让黑酒攻克变质难题，但囿于营销经验和资本的缺乏，很难实现质的突破，黑酒必须注入新的活力。

2011年，几个外行人将目光投向了黑酒，带着“无知者无畏”的大胆，新团队将黑龙冰岛更名为“金樽黑”，同时，还引入台湾投资人，海外市场也纳入到了黑酒的发展视野中。

黑龙，真的会成为飞天金龙吗？

“中国黑酒”的再出发

黑酒投资人之一张先生跟**在线记者说的**句话就透着对黑酒的赞赏：“中国**的酒窝子里就应该出这么一个独具特色的酒中异类，**不同于白酒和黄酒的中国酒。”

宜宾丰富的水系孕育了开放自由的大江文化 摄影：付希娟

张先生告诉记者，重新出发的黑酒希望通过参展成都糖酒会，为下一步的规模化生产和市场化运作进行调研和试探。“我们接触了一些经销商，反响不错，武汉和郑州的经销商特意退了返程机票赶到酒厂考察，当时就要和我们签订销售合同。”不过，老道的经销商还是对金樽黑的包装提出了质疑。“包装确实是我们亟待解决的问题。主要是与白酒区别不大，也没有很好地传达出黑酒的定位和文化内涵。”

此外，为解决黑酒规模化生产问题，新团队开始征地建新厂，计划一期扩建30亩，两年内完成建设和投产，届时，年产将达到千吨以上，这也为黑酒成为真正的流通商品打下基础；“熟人销售模式”也将发生变化，据张先生介绍，新团队正在建立完整的推广及销售体系。“独特的口感、传统的酿造工艺、低度健康的特性，让黑酒的饮用方式区别与白酒，讲究的是品味和消闲，这就需要有与之匹配的销售和推广渠道。”实际上，新团队已经接触礼品和会所渠道，并开始赞助一些文化交流活动，他们希望把黑酒打造成中国酒文化的新代表。

“我们正在向国家商标局申请复议，希望重获黑娇子商标。熊猫娇子既是国宝也是四川名片，希望黑酒未来也能承载这样的使命！而且黑娇子翻译成英文是黑色宠儿，很适合向**市场推广。” 本行从事自动化设备销售的张先生告诉记者说： “之前我是把德国**的设备卖到中国，今后，我希望能将中国**潜质的好酒卖到国外去。

墙内墙外同样香？在白酒都未真正走出去的情况下，突破陈规的新团队真能打造出代表中国酒的黑色宠儿吗？黑酒是否能以自己独特的魅力征服国人，并成为餐桌上的第五瓶酒？我们拭目以待！

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